tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6542611758464173039.post5391756182378959626..comments2022-03-25T04:50:32.698-07:00Comments on Primal Focus: A Climber's Best Friend, and Worst Enemy.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01736422685862150241noreply@blogger.comBlogger5125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6542611758464173039.post-11700440509591667052013-07-17T05:34:32.500-07:002013-07-17T05:34:32.500-07:00Hey,
I know very little about pharmaceuticals, an...Hey,<br /><br />I know very little about pharmaceuticals, and it is out of my scope to prescribe them, but I just read a little into this and it looks interesting!<br /><br />If you have any articles for this, please send them my way.<br /><br />JamesAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01736422685862150241noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6542611758464173039.post-21728755775453484742013-07-17T05:26:09.322-07:002013-07-17T05:26:09.322-07:00Hey Yasser,
Thanks so much for the amazing reply!...Hey Yasser,<br /><br />Thanks so much for the amazing reply!<br /><br />I knew there were very specific indications for surgery when it comes to complete ruptures, but did not know what they were specifically coming from an Ortho Surgeon specializing in hands. Now i know!<br /><br />I'm not sure how I didn't mention NSAIDs, as that is usually my first suggestion along with ice and ROM exercises, but I will add that in, as I also believe it is invaluable to speeding up that acute and subactue phase.<br /><br />I also recommend that people take those first two weeks off of climbing all together, while they deal with the processes happening in the acute phase. In my experience, after those two weeks, I like climbers to be back to climbing in the gym, as it is more predictable, and they can focus on using large holds.<br /><br />Lastly, I will change out the "open crimp" terms. I think that I've just always called that position an open crimp, which has been false. Thanks for the clarification!<br /><br />If you can refer me to any of your articles you have written, I would gladly add them to my reading list along with Dr. Schoeffl's papers.<br /><br />Thanks again for all the input Yasser,<br />JamesAnonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01736422685862150241noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6542611758464173039.post-30859980034069262812013-07-16T19:20:09.604-07:002013-07-16T19:20:09.604-07:00 Just add to this, nandrolone will increase collag... Just add to this, nandrolone will increase collagen III indicators by 270% ( at 3mg/kg and Equipoise will increase it by 340% ( 3mg/Kg) , over normal body collagen repair rates. This will not repair a full tear but any stage I and II issue is treatable. Unknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05239024395262434718noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6542611758464173039.post-69513180529976511632013-07-16T18:48:43.846-07:002013-07-16T18:48:43.846-07:00Hi James. Great Blog!
This is very valuable in...Hi James. Great Blog!<br /> <br />This is very valuable info for climbers and health professionals dealing with Flexor Pulley injuries (aka: climbers' finger). <br /><br />Just a few comments and clarifications:<br /><br />1) Regarding surgery, we rarely operate on these injuries, even for complete pulley ruptures. Surgery is indicated for complete, combined ruptures (e.g. A2 and A4) with tendon bowstringing, or in the case of a complete single pulley rupture that has healed but with chronic pain or stiffness. We reconstruct the pulley with a tendon graft and remove scar tissue to improve motion.<br /><br />2) In the acute inflammatory phase, I would add oral NSAIDs to your regimen of anti-inflammatory measures (consult an MD first). Medications such as ibubrofen are invaluable for controlling inflammation, particularly in the immediate 72hrs post injury. Other effective methods, many of which you mentioned, are ice (or hot, then ice cold contrast baths for the whole hand), massage, stretching and ROM exercises, laser, TENS and U/S.<br /><br />3) Rehab for these injuries is slow and can be frustrating if you try to climb hard too early. I usually recommend 2 weeks completely off of climbing, followed by very gradual return to climbing, starting with low intensity and big holds, and absolutely NO CRIMPING for at least 6 weeks, usually more like 2-4 months.<br /><br />4) Lastly, just a minor correction: your second photo of the hand hold is not an "open crimp", it is an "open grip". Open crimp or half crimp is like the full crimp grip, but without hyperextension at the DIP joints and without use of the thumb.<br /><br />5) I have written and researched extensively on pulley injuries in climbing, but I would refer you to articles by Dr. Volker Schoeffl (for health professionals) and his book "One Move Too Many" (for climbers), for anything you want to know about biomechanics, prevention and treatment of these injuries. Volker is the international guru on this subject.<br /><br />Enjoy!<br />Yasser El-SheikhRocDochttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14975266922315172128noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6542611758464173039.post-88517685262383713792013-07-16T12:04:15.965-07:002013-07-16T12:04:15.965-07:00Photos that include your gorgeous face would be mu...Photos that include your gorgeous face would be much appreciated :)Tyler Palubiskihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03457268846542661426noreply@blogger.com